Classic Baja Fish Tacos… and a little Fish Taco history, too

While perusing one of the many e-newsletters I get each and every day, I came across a great little article about fish tacos.
I don’t know about you, but I cannot get enough of this tasty finger food.

The article says that “Fish tacos are the Steve McQueen of Western foods: casual and cool. Born in Baja, Mexico, they were brought north of the border by surfers who’d discovered just how delicious deep-fried or grilled fish could be when wrapped in a corn tortilla and served with a mayonnaise-based sauce, salsa, and a most vital spritzito of lime.” I have no idea what a “spritzito” of lime means, but they sure got it right when they said “today, a good fish taco, a cold Pacifico and the beach are three essentials of Mexico”. Okay, I changed the wording a little to make it work here. My point is, the Jaltemba Bay area has some darn good fish and shrimp tacos, and if you haven’t tried them you’re missing out!

I’ve shared one of my favorite fish taco recipes in past issues, but this particular recipe is a classic and more like the style of tacos we get here.

Buen Provecho!

Classic Baja Fish Tacos

Makes: 6 to 8 tacos
Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients
1 cup each dark beer and flour
1 tsp. salt
Vegetable oil
1½ lbs. firm, white-fleshed fish fillets such as Pacific cod or tilapia, cut into 1-inch wide strips
12-16 corn tortillas (6 inches wide), warmed (see Quick Tip below)
Cabbage and Cilantro Slaw (recipe follows)
Chipotle Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)
Lime wedges

Directions
1. In a bowl, whisk beer, flour and salt until well blended.

2. Preheat oven to 200°. Pour about 1 inch of oil into a 10-12 inch nonstick frying pan (with sides at least 2 inches high); heat over medium-high heat until oil measures 360° on a deep-fry thermometer. With a fork, dip each piece of fish into beer batter, then lift out and let drain briefly. Slide fish into oil, a few pieces at a time, and cook until golden (adjust heat to maintain 360°), turning if necessary to brown on all sides, 2-4 minutes per batch. With a slotted spoon, transfer cooked fish to a paper towel–lined baking sheet. Keep warm in oven while frying remaining fish.

3. To assemble each taco, stack 2 warm tortillas and top with a couple of pieces of fish, then a spoonful of slaw. Serve with tartar sauce on the side to add to taste and lime wedges to squeeze over top.

Quick Tip: To heat tortillas, wrap in a kitchen towel and microwave until warm and soft, about 1 minute.

Cabbage and Cilantro Slaw: In a large bowl, mix 1½ quarts finely shredded cabbage (about 10 oz.), 1/3 cup chopped cilantro, 3 tbsp. fresh lime juice, 2 tbsp. vegetable oil, 1/4 tsp. red chile flakes, and salt to taste. Makes 4¼ cups.

Chipotle Tartar Sauce: Rinse 2 tbsp. canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce and discard seeds and veins. In a blender, purée chiles with 1 cup mayonnaise and 1/4 cup each sweet pickle relish and chopped onion until smooth. Makes 1 1/3 cups.

In Search of the Real Fish Taco

This is a brief cultural history of the tastiest export to come out of Baja since cerveza.

On an elemental level, the fish taco can be reduced to a very simple equation: Fish + Tortilla = Fish Taco.

From this perspective, there is little question that people have been eating fish tacos in the coastal areas of Mexico for an awfully long time. It probably goes back thousands of years to when indigenous North American peoples first wrapped the plentiful offshore catch into stone-ground-corn tortillas.

More recently, somewhere in Baja California, sometime in the last 40 or 50 years, someone concocted what is generally considered to be the prototypical fish taco. According to aficionados ― call them the cognoscenti ― this humble delicacy consists of a lightly battered mild white fish that is deep-fried, then served in a corn tortilla (often two) with shredded cabbage, a thin sour-cream- or mayonnaise-based sauce, a bit of salsa, and a most vital spritzito of lime.

On this everyone agrees. What everyone doesn’t agree on is where in Baja the archetype originated. San Diego fish-taco mogul Ralph Rubio, whose chain of stores makes him the great white shark of the fish-taco world, cites San Felipe as the source. But the señoras hustling and hawking virtually identical fish tacos at virtually identical stands at Ensenada’s fish market won’t stand for that. They say their port town is the fish taco’s true home, dating at least from the opening of the Ensenada mercado, in 1958.

The truth is out there ― somewhere. In the meantime, this Baja export has become the border cuisine of the moment.

A Fish Story

Though many Americans are only now learning about the simple virtues of fish tacos, surfers and seasoned Mexico travelers have long considered fish tacos an integral part of the Baja experience.

As fish tacos reached El Norte, they went upscale ― out of the fryer and onto the grill. These new heart-friendly tacos may be more healthful, but they tend to lose their soul along with the fat. Done right, however, grilled fish tacos can taste mighty good, authenticity issues notwithstanding.

All of which means that Ralph Rubio made the right call in 1974 when he decided not to stay home and study during spring break.

That was the first year Rubio and friends at San Diego State went down to San Felipe on the Sea of Cortés. In addition to cerveza, fish tacos at local stands proved to be their main sustenance, and became one of the prime reasons they would return to San Felipe each spring.

Rubio was particularly fond of the fresh fish tacos made by a vendor named Carlos. One night Rubio suggested that Carlos open up a stand in San Diego. Carlos, making a decision that he can only hope his wife never hears about, replied that he didn’t want to leave Mexico. “I vividly remember the conversation,” says Rubio today. “It was late at night, I’m drinking Coronas with my buddies, and the thought hit me: If he doesn’t want to open a stand, why don’t I just get the recipe?”

Carlos provided Rubio with a recipe, though he didn’t specify exact amounts of ingredients. Eventually Rubio figured out a recipe that worked, and with the backing of his father, opened his first restaurant in 1983 in an old, failed hamburger stand near Mission Bay.

Not long after the opening, Rubio returned to San Felipe to see the legendary Carlos and give him some money as thanks. But Carlos had moved ― some said to the rival fish-taco center of Ensenada. No one knew for sure.

Today Carlos’s old San Felipe stand still operates, but under different ownership. Rubio’s is a multimillion-dollar company.

“It was one of those rare moments of inspiration,” says Rubio of that fateful night. “Besides, I wasn’t the only gringo in San Felipe with a business major.”

This recipe and the history of the fish taco come from Sunset.com

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